BELAYING

The Basics:

Climbing is a two person operation; each climber needs to be protected by a belayer who remains on the ground. The basic set up used down at the wall is called a "top rope system." This means that the rope is tied to the climber, goes up and over a pulley at the top of the wall and then down to the belayer. As the climber goes up, the belayer is responsible for taking up slack and catching the climber if she falls.

The climber ties into the rope using a "figure 8 follow through" knot. The IM's down at the wall are exceptionally skilled at teaching this knot to anyone who doesn't know it.

The belayer attaches to his end of the rope using a "caribeaner" and a "belay device." The particular belay device used down at the wall are "ATC's" which, beleive it or not, stands for air traffic controller. Belay devices work by means of friction; if the rope is pulled upwards toward the cliber, the rope will slide easily through the ATC. If, however, the rope is pulled downward toward the hip then the friction between the ATC and the rope is enough to lock off the rope completely.

Belay Technique:

Belaying is simple procedure to learn but there are some very important rules that must be followed in order to belay safely. I will not even attempt to teach belaying from this web page because it is something that must be learned hands on and in person. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BELAY SOMEONE IF YOU HAVE NOT BEEN TAUGHT THE PROPER TECHNIQUE BY AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER.

Procedure for New Belayers:

The procedure down at the wall for new belayers is as follows:

A new belayer, after learning the technique from a trained IM or other experienced climber, must belay with someone backing them up on three separate days. Belayers are backed up by having an IM hold the loose end of the rope just in case. Once they have belayed, backed up, on three different visits to the wall, on the forth day they can take the belay test. This system makes sure that belayers can remember the technique from one visit to the next.

The Belay Test:

Belay tests can be administered by any IM. During the belay test the IM will pretend that he/she is a beginner and the test-taker will have to demonstrate that he/she can belay the IM safely and with the proper procedure. The test- taker must demonstrate knowledge of the correct way to. . .

. . . put on a harness.

. . . set up an ATC.

. . . tie into a harness using a figure 8 follow through knot.

. . . check to make sure everything is set up correctly.

. . . use pre-climb calls (belay on, on belay, etc.)

. . . belay a climber up the wall.

. . . arrest a climber's fall.

. . . lower a climber safely to the ground.

While new belayers can only take the belay test after they have belayed, backed up, on three separate days, climbers with previous experience can take the belay test during their first visit to the wall. ALL BELAYERS MUST HAVE PASSED THE BELAY TEST.

Last edited on Feb.19, 1996 by Tim Gustafson and Derek Sasaki-Scanlon.